One of the most hotly contested classic cocktails in bar lore originated in a salon in Peru in the 1920s – or did it? 
				
				
			The itinerant vodka cocktail that deserves to wander on to modern menus. By Seamus Harris.
				
				
			A pitch-black, vegetal bucking bronco of a drink that impresses and refreshes. 
				
				
			



