Vinegar
As a cost effective, low waste ingredient with a long shelf life, Max Tang of Shanghai’s Hungry Lung’s Kitchen (HLK) sees vinegar as “easier to operate than citrus fruits.”
Vinegar’s acidity is similar to citrus (in terms of pH), but the big difference is the type of acid it provides – acetic instead of citric. That key differences makes for a unique flavour profile in drinks. “When using vinegar, you have to employ great care when tweaking the recipes to account for the extra flavours produced by acetic fermentation,” points out Louis. As he explains, acetic fermentation can also result in “fluctuations in the resultant flavours, depending on each batch based on environmental conditions”.
While this unpredictability can hinder consistency, it can also lead to diversity. “We make our own vinegars to bring a different layer of acidity to drinks,” says Jun. “At the same time, some vinegars can be sweeter and add to the sugar content in the drink, which could be a happy accident.” Likewise, Max gives the example of coconut vinegar, which offers “a slightly softer flavour compared with other fruit vinegars, and a sweet aftertaste that can open new doors for cocktail creativity,” he says. For Louis, “a dash or two of sherry vinegar can really help boost the profile of a drink.”
Pro tip when using vinegar – beware of balance. “The taste of acetic acid is potent,” explains Max. “When it is combined with alcohol, the flavour of the drink’s base spirit should be richer or stronger.” He suggests tequila, cognac, rum or whisky are a better match than the more delicate profiles of spirits like vodka or gin.
Last Call
by Max Tang
45ml Cognac VSOP
20ml Amaretto
15ml Coconut vinegar
7.5ml Pernod
Shake well and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with ground clove.
